Wednesday, December 19, 2012

The Red Wiggle Dress - Gertie's New Book For Better Sewing


This is my first version of the Wiggle Dress from Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing



זו הגרסה שלי לשמלת "נענוע" (aka -the Wiggle Dress) מתוך הספר - Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing. אני כותבת את הפוסט הזה בנתיים רק באנגלית , מכיוון שרוב מי שיתעניין בפירוט יהיה ככל הנראה שייך לקהילה הבינלאומית. אך אם בא לכן להשתתף בדיון, אתן רוצות שאתרגם את הpattern review- בבקשה, תשאירו תגובה, אני ממש אשמח (!)




























Pattern Review: The Red Wiggle Dress - Gertie's New Book For Better Sewing  



Pattern Description: from the book- "Here is a dress that's meant to show off your curves, yet you'll still be office appropriate  The sheath style, kimono sleeves, boat-neck front, and a V-neck back are all borrowed from a time when work attire was a lot more exiting than today.." I made this version to wear to our friend's wedding in Paris, so it was upgraded into a Joan Holloway.  I think Joan would actually easily wear this one to work too, maybe just for a good enough reason .. :)

Pattern Sizing: I am size 8 (bust)-10 (hips) in Gertie's chart (yes, and me like it)).
Actually the fact we have a similar body shape helped a lot, since the pattern almost did not require any fitting adjustments. I took off about half an inch length in the waist, and add a bit more ease in the belly area (midway between the waist and the hips).

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done with it? 
Yes it did. I was pretty amazed to try the dress for the first time, cause I haven't made a muslin. I guess the fact it's very fitted makes you see the shape right away. 

Were the instructions easy to follow? 
Yes, mostly. At first I got a bit stressed out since I only found some pattern pieces on a page. The usual story with me- missing the small print. Most of the patterns are printed out on a few sheets, and it says which in a little box on the garment page, under supplies
Other than that the instruction worked for me almost all the way through. I used Gertie's blog tutorial with for a more detailed gussets instructions (it has bigger pictures), but it was only since it was my first time doing that. I made the dress in the second version already and didn't even need the instructions anymore. 
I did a little change there- didn't feel the need to transfer the stitching lines to the right side, i just pined the organza there, just around the lines and stitched on the wrong sides (I think that's also Gertie's technique from the Starlet Suit Jacket course, she used on bound button holes)
One thing I really missed here were some instructions on the lining. I could not find any reference else where to making a lining for a dress with underarm gussets. Since I didn't believe you have to make the whole organza strip of fabric-gusset procedure again on the lining, I just left the sleeves unlined for this version. 
If anybody knows what to do with the lining in this case- please let me know:), I finished the second version and it's still unlined..

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? 
Well that's easy- I love the pattern, the fit is "mine", this is a classic Kimono sleeve, that can be used over and over in many variations.. Whats not to like? :) 

Fabric Used: Red wool crepe I brought back from Toronto. I had 2 yards, but it was enough, may be cause I'm a bit shorter than Gertie. I lined it with some satin quality and a bit stretchy fabric, that feels like rayon. The stretch makes the lining more comfortable to wear, and the satin feels pleasant against the skin.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: 
*** For this version I changed the neck line into a scoop neck, for a more evening look. This was easy (I just followed the new line of the front bodice neckline to draw the new facing. BUT (And Gertie talks about that in the book) if you do that- be sure to STABILIZE the neckline seam with some good organza stripes or a ready made stabilizer.  It is not enough just to make a stabilizing row of stitching  I did that and had to fight the gaping quiet a lot later. With my second version (soon to be posted) I did follow the more strict instructions and it worked.

Would you sew it again? 
Hell yeah, already did. Post about it soon.

Would you recommend it to others? 
Yes definitely, if you like this style.

I have to say a few words about this lovely blogger, that I feel so grateful to. As strange as it sounds to me now, there was a time in my life when I was pursuing  this hobby of mine  ALL BY MY SELF, not aware of the the internet sewing community. My knowledge came mostly from reading old fashion books and collecting vintage patterns and sewing books (in any language I could put my hands on). I loved my interest but mostly felt a bit alone..:(

Stumbling across Gertie's blog was a big breakthrough for me. I was amazed to see another person so passionate about an interest similar to mine. She was smart and funny and feminist and talked about sewing with great enthusiasm and intention to detail. Through her blog I discovered many other wonderful "sewing enthusiasts" and decided to open my own blog, to be able to communicate  share ideas with the English and the Hebrew speaking folks out there. Meanwhile reading Gertie's blog and taking her classes on Craftsy has become a custom activity, so of course when her book was released I quickly pre-ordered my copy and waited patiently for it to arrive. 


The book was everything I have expected. Gretchen has turned all her long harvested work over the years of writing the blog into accessible knowledge in a hard and (extremely cute) copy. In other words, for those of you cracking their heads alone- how to manage sewing those vintage pattern of yours or execute some of the inspired images in your head (as I used to) - this is the book for you. It has all the needed techniques in one place, and if you'll  need a bit more elaboration, just search the same subject in the Gertie's blog. 


I have read some critique about Gertie's book, mostly being around the fitting issues that people noticed in the photographs. I however totally adored that, since it showed once again that Gertie is HUMAN and can gain a little weight when she sits all day and works on her book (I did working on my thesis!) and that kind of made the book even dearer to me. I love seeing some curves on a model, I miss it a lot in the fashion world. It actually had a therapeutic value for me as a woman living in a skinny-model obsessed world.
The fact that I share a similar body shape with Gretchen also really helped. She based the patterns on her own and a pretty prevalent female shape, and I've noticed that I almost didn't need to make any fitting adjustments, beside length. I have worked with many pattern companies in the past and the fitting is always a big issue. 


For a more comprehensive review of the book (and perhaps a bit more objective:)  read what The Couture Academic had to say about it.  You can also see the pictures of the different projects from the book and decide for yourself.

Thanks for reading, welcome to my blog (if you are new:) and please share your thoughts  I have an idea for making the sewing of the patterns from this book a bit easier for us, so if you are into it, let me know.


Milena (aka Milenushka) 





22 comments:

  1. платье получилось очень красивое и эффекнтое.
    жаль только,что персфектива не позволяет в правильном ракурсе видеть изделие и его посадку....
    по попвпду ластовицы- я бы на подкладе работала в точности как и на основной ткани и по углам припуски основной ткани и подклада совместила(против смещения.
    одно маленькое замечание можно? у тебя спинка короче, чем у Герти. вот как раз на фото со спины видно поперечные складки на талии. вот их надо заколоть для будующей выкройки.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Sewing Galaxy, thank you:)
      Тоесть, на подкладе ластовицы не делать, а пришить их к основной ткани, Я правельно поняла? А как вы бы ластовицы к подклаке пришили, вручную? Насчет спинки учту, спасибо! Очень помогает наметанный глаз сзади :)

      Delete
    2. нет!нет! на подкладке тоже должны бать обязательно ластовицы. а вот углы их и углы ластовицы ткани шиваются друг с другом по припускам швом.
      у меня нет к сожалению картинки показать это

      Delete
    3. Sewing Galaxy, thank you again. Ето звучит как очень многор работы, но я подумаю. Другая идея которая у меня была это использовать снова материал стрэтч дла подклада и просто заментить ластовицы на простой раглан.

      Delete
  2. This dress is stunning! I have nominated you for an Inspiring Blogger Award.

    http://lacouturieredimanche.blogspot.com/2012/12/very-inspiring-blogger-award.html

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Wow, thank you Evie! That's really nice, It's my first award in the blogosphere.. :)) Now I have some thinking to do.. This is a great little tradition.

      Delete
  3. Just lovely! I've only made a couple of pencil skirts and the strapless dress from Gertie's book. Your dress is really inspiring me to go back and try some more of the patterns.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Leila! Thank you:) I was thinking of organizing all that information, for people to be able to find it quickly, so if you would like me to post a link to your blog post, with the finished project, send it to me - milenushkas@gmail.com.

      Delete
  4. Such a beautiful dress! The fit is perfect!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Miss Crayola, that's so nice to hear. I think, as I was told by one of my Russian speaking readers, I still could fit it a bit better (taking off one cm in the back- waist section) but all in all I am pretty happy with the outcome.
      p.s. I love the list you've made to organize your project, and I am now a new follower. I am planning something similar with Gertie's book so stay tuned:)

      Delete
  5. What a knockout dress! Just stunning. The red is beautiful on you.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Kathy, and welcome to my little corner of the world. It's so nice meeting new people:)!

      Delete
  6. Oh this is so sharp- perfect on you!

    ReplyDelete
  7. אוף, נמחקה לי תגובה. אני אקצר: נכנסתי מווי סו רטרו - איזה כיף שאת ישראלית - השמלה לוהטת רצח :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. יש! תגובה ישראלית! טרולולו:) תודה דורה, וברוכה הבאה

      Delete
    2. ברוכה הנמצאת! גם לי יש את הספר של גרטי, אבל בינתיים עשיתי ממנו רק את חולצת הפורטרט (אני מאוד אוהבת אותה אגב). אני אוהבת את הגזרה של השמלה שלך אבל לא בטוחה לגבי הטלאים בבית השחי. זה נראה לי מסובך שלא לצורך -- אם עושים שרוולי קימונו זה כדי לא להסתבך עם הכנסת שרוולים, לא? או שזאת צורת המחשבה שלי כי אני עצלנית...

      Delete
    3. אני חושבת שיש משהו בצורה הזו של שרוול הקימונו, שהוא מאוד 50'ז, כתף רכה ועגלגלה שאין קו שחותך אותה. את הטלאין עושים כדי שהקימונו יהיה צמוד לגוף, וזה ממה לא קשה. את רק צריכה 4 חתיכות אורגנזה משי (בנתיים בנחלת בנימין ראיתי רק בפמינה) אגב- חנות הבדים האהובה עלי ביותר. מבחינת עצלנות, אותה כמות של עבודה לדעתי, ואחרי פעם אחת זה נהיה ברור ויותר קל. יש לך בלוג? אני אשמח לראות את העבודות שלך גם

      Delete
  8. Your dress is stunning, so vavavoom. Love it!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. thank you Caroline! nice to see you here:)

      Delete
  9. This is so beautiful on you. Thank you for the thorough review of this dress. I have the book but have only made the pencil skirt so far, and am considering making this dress for the Mad Men Challenge/Sewalong that Julia Bobbin is hosting. Thanks for the inspiration. Happily following your blog now.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oh, thank you Shelley! What a lovely comment:) Welcome!

      Delete

תודה לכל המגיבים :) I love reading your comments!

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...